Breathing is not just for humans

The need for proper air in the #garden can not be overstated, as it is the last thing most gardeners are thinking about when setting up plans for a new site or trying to fill in bare areas.  Proper air circulation ranks high on the list just as healthy soil and proper moisture does, just as the climate around each individual effects them in one way or another, the climate around a plant can make the difference to its adaptability in your garden.  The lack of good air movement or breathing around the plants various components can cause them to grow sparse and leggy, it can subjects them to more diseases, bug invasions and truly hamper their survival.

Steps to take to insure good air circulation are do not crowd – over planting in a area will not give a fuller look, plant according to given instructions on spacing.  It may look a little open and bare at first but with time the plant/s will fill the area. Choose carefully when planting under low branching trees and shrubs, while some trees and shrubs can be enhanced by pruning off low branches, others will look like they were hacked.  When planting a new plant make sure any low dense overgrowth from other plants is cut back, also check the finished height of the plant to insure it will be able to reach its full height with no interference.

Proper air movement will allow plants to dry quicker after a light or heavy rainfall and permits the sun to filter through to help in the drying process, keeping your plants healthy. 

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Preparing for winter

With winter coming fast upon us now is the time to get those perennial plants, deciduous trees and shrubs in the ground for summer and spring blooming.  You can continue to plant as weather and time permits, giving each plant a deep watering, applying and keeping two to four inches of your choice of mulch; making sure you leave a space of two to three inches between your plant and the mulch. If you live in areas that receive harsh winters, or heavy #winter winds; it could very well be worth your while to construct a windbreaker around any sensitive plants to buffer any damaging effects.  Continue to water as necessary until the ground has frozen completely, then make sure to add two to four inches of mulch of your choice to your perennial borders and garden beds.

Shredded wood used as mulch. This type of mulch is often dyed to improve its appearance in the landscape. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

If rabbits, rodents, or deer have been a problem in past winters, take precautions with valuable woody plants now.  Creating a physical barriers; which is more effective than sprays, to deter rabbits, rodents and/or deer.  To keep them from invading and living in the #garden in winter, sorry but it might be necessary to cut down their winter habitats, such as those ornamental grass clumps or perennials you might prefer to leave standing for winter interest.  To prevent rabbits gnawing on your tree trunks or other valuable woody plants, surround them with hardware cloth, leaving a space of about one to three inches between the plants and hardware cloth.

Pixabay/Public Domain/CC0

All of your uncleaned ceramic, cement, or terra-cotta containers should be emptied, washed and dried to prevent mold from forming and stored in a frost-free space. Store all unused herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers, and chemicals in original, labeled containers safely in a frost free zone, such as your garage or storing shed. Clean, sharpen and oil all of your tools.  And before any freezing occurs; make sure to check that you have disconnected your outside water sources, drain hoses and empty any standing water, such as in a birdbath, standing water features that are not heated. 

Put your garden in a container

Embellishment for the garden  Pixabay/Public Domain/ CC0

#Container gardening has increased in popularity over the last few years. Planting in containers is not just for people who lack space, but can be a unique embellishment for any gardeners garden. The best thing about container gardening is you can put it wherever you like, and since your garden is portable, you can move plants in an out of the sun and rain as needed, move them around for different effects and move them inside for the winter. Your container garden can be as whimsical or as proper as you see fit.

Containers can add instant color, architectural interest, or can be used as a focal point to any area. One of the fun parts of planting in containers is that you get to choose the container, which can be anything from a plain pot to a washtub to a barrel to a pair of boots or a modified chair. You can let your imagination go wild on the shape, size, color, width, or height of the containers for your garden; personalizing it into your own unique piece of art.

Pixabay/ Public Domain/CC0

Containers allow you to experiment with new plants, try something outside of your growing zone; new growing medium, new watering methods, etc; if you don't like the results of your experiment, it is easy enough to start over with something new.

The one tricky thing about container gardening is watering, this is why you must make sure you have good drainage holes, and not just one but lots of them at least the size of a pea. If you are using a object that has none, you must find a way to make your own. Over-watering can turn your leaves yellow and leave your plant limp, it will also encourage mold and fungus to grow; under-watering will stint growth and well, could kill your plant off. Most container gardens need a good watering at least once a day during the summer. When you see water coming out of the bottom – stop – wait for the excess water to drain out, then do it again. Surface watering does your plant no good – water needs to get to the roots. Do not water your containers on rainy days, in fact, if mother nature does a good job you may not have to water for a few days.

So join the fun and just don't limit yourself to flowers, try vegetables, herbs, vines and yes, even shrubs and trees.

Pixabay/Public Domain/CC0

Organic garden tips that work

Garden, April 13 (Photo credit: jon.roberts)

Most gardeners like to keep their garden as organic as possible, the list below are suggestion that I have tried and have worked for me, this is not saying that they will work in all gardens but they are worth a try.

Using a mixture of 1 oz. of hydrogen peroxide with 32 ozs. of water can help your plants grow a stronger root system.

Here is one my grandmother did to increase the color of her roses - sprinkle one half cup of epsom salts around the base of your mature bushes.

An inexpensive way to avoid getting blackspot and powdery mildew on your roses is to mix about 3 tablespoons of baking soda and 2 or 3 drops of dish soap in a gallon of water and apply to your roses with a spray bottle.

Used coffee grounds and crushed egg shells spread around the base of your plants will kill slugs, snails and ants. Coffee grounds have proven to get rid of ant mounds – you may have to apply a few times over because of rain but it does work.

To keep ticks away from your garden, plant lavender and peppermint to keep the fleas away. Plant parsley and tansy to attract ladybugs.

Very finely crushed egg shells mixed in your soil will increase the calcium in your soil, that in turn will raise your soil pH making your plants stronger.

New and hot 2014 perennials

Flower Garden/Photo by GerFes/Public Domain/Wikimedia

With the Eyes of March upon us; what gardener is not looking forward to a warm sun and the feel of rich black soil in their hands? Hopefully winter is at its end. This is the time of year that most gardeners really look forward to their planting season and begin to look for new and exciting plants to grow. If you are like me you like to let your imagination go wild during this time and envision your garden in all its splendor.

The 2014 season looks very promising with new shades of color, easier to maintain plants and more varieties of favorite plants. Whether you are planting in solid ground or in pots, the 2014 season will let your creativity shine as bright as the sun.

Let us start off with a native perennial, the Echinacea or Coneflower. This easy to grow native plant is drought tolerant and easy to grow whether its throughout your garden, as a border plant or in containers. The new head turner this season is called “Supreme Cantaloupe,” a double coneflower that is amazingly the color of ripe cantaloupes, plus it is a carefree repeat bloomer for color all season long. Its grows 26-29 inches tall with a spread of about 15 inches, will grow in full sun or partial shade.

For an outstanding blue in your garden the “Black and Blue Salvia” is your ticket if you live in the 7 to 10 Zone area. This full sun to partial shade plant is a midnight to steely blue that shows it glory in summer and fall. It stands 30” to 36” high and is 2” to 3” wide. Although it has no fragrance it attracts Hummingbirds and Butterflies. This hardy plant is resistant to drought, mildew, deer, and foot traffic.

Black and Blue Salvia/Photo by Heather Abounader/CCA 2.0G/Wikimedia

No garden would be complete without one variety of Oriental Poppy growing in it and one with the most color for your buck would be the “Harlem” with it's deep burgundy-red color. A lover of the sun this red beauty is 28” to 30” in height and 18” to 23” wide. It tolerates drought conditions and is a repeat bloomer, summer and fall. “Harlem” grows in zones 3 to 5.

For those interested in a ground-cover, the Chrysogonum “Quinn'sGold” will do you nicely. This drought resistant, full to partial shade plant grows in Zones 5-8 and can be evergreen where winters are mild. It's cute small white to yellow zinnia-like flowers produce from early spring to summer on leafy runners. The plants stands only 6” high and has about a 24” spread and infrequently is bother with pest or disease.

To add a whimsical fairy-like air to your garden or along your border I think you would be happy with Geranium “DragonHeart.” This hardy geranium does best in Zones 4-8 in full sun or partial shade. The two-inch flower color varies from magenta to a ruby-magenta with black centers. It grows 12” high with a 18” spread and blooms from early summer to mid-fall.

Geranium/Photo by Jan Baker/CCA SA 2.0/Wikimedia

Whether you enjoy planting what's trendy or like to try your hand at growing some new perennials, be on the lookout in 2014 for its many offers of new plants for color and shape.

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Lifting bulbs for winter

Autumn is the time of year that most gardeners prepare their garden for winter. Lifting, drying and storing your flower bulbs that are not hardy enough to withstand the winter in your area is a task best done in mid to late autumn.

Although most bulbs can be left in the ground in mild winter zones, many flowering bulbs, such as, gladiolus, alliums, oxalis and canna, cannot withstand harsh winter zones. After your bulbs have finished flowering, it is best to leave the foliage to ripen naturally. The foliage is what provides nutrients to the bulb for future growth. You will know that it has ripened completely when it turns yellow or brown and the slightest pull will detach it from the bulb in the ground.   

To lift the bulbs, insert a spading fork straight down into the ground, clear of the plant and deep enough to carefully lift the bulb from the ground. Gently loosen and removal the soil around the bulb, pull off any dead leaves, roots and bulblets. Place the bulbs in a tray, preferably in a mesh tray, uncovered, and placed the tray in a cool area, allowing the bulbs to dry for about seven to 10 days.    

After the bulbs have dried, place them in a label tray in a single layer, making sure they do not touch each other and placed the tray in a cool dry place in planting time. Do not enclose the bulbs, as good air circulation will prevent mold.

                                               
                           

 

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